I’ve finished one cycle of trying the 5/3/1 hangboarding protocol I described in my last post. Results are… inconclusive. So to refresh your memory the idea was to apply the 5/3/1 weightlifting program in which you do progressive reps at a percentage of your one rep max over a four week period. I did 18 mm edge two arm hangs with a half crimp once a week and 3.5″ pinch block one arm deadlifts once a week. Both for 7 sec reps. My one rep max stats 4 weeks ago were bodyweight + 55 lbs for the edge and 50 lbs for the pinch block.
Last week I retested both. For the edge I did bodyweight + 95 lbs and for the pinch I did 52.5 lbs. I’m sure you’re thinking I hit the holy grail of hangboarding with an increase of 40 lbs on the edges! However, I’m not sure I believe it as I haven’t noticed a marked improvement in my crimp strength while climbing. I think when I tested at +55 lbs I was tired from likely doing a long session beforehand. The slight improvement with the pinch block is likely accurate and I feel is negligible. I’m deeming 5/3/1 a fairly on this front. I’m going to drop the pinch hangs and focus on following the protocol properly on the edges with my now accurate one rep max. I’ll report how that goes in another 4 weeks!